Sint Janskerk in Gouda

The Sint Janskerk is a long, plain late Gothic hall, rebuilt after a fire in the middle of the sixteenth century, and the reason to go is the glass. Around seventy windows survive, most made in the decades either side of 1600, including large narrative panels by the Crabeth brothers, and together they cover the period when Dutch glass painting shifted from church commissions to civic and private donors. They were never swapped for clear glazing, which is what happened in most Dutch churches, so the interior keeps its colour and the coded detail of coats of arms, townscapes and inscriptions. A numbered route takes you window by window.

What you actually see

• The Crabeth windows - the large sixteenth century narrative panels, the strongest of the set.
• The civic windows - later panels given by towns and guilds, full of local detail.
• The length of the nave - a hall church that simply runs on further than expected.
• The window route - numbered stops with subjects and donors explained one by one.

When to go

A bright day matters more than the season, since the windows need light behind them and overcast weather flattens them completely. Morning and afternoon favour different sides of the church. Opening hours shorten in winter, and the church closes for services and concerts, so check the day before travelling.

Honest expectations

It is one thing seen at length, and your interest in stained glass decides whether two hours feels short or long. The church is otherwise bare and cold, with hard seats and little else to hold you. The entrance fee catches people out. Gouda beyond the market square and the church is an ordinary working town.

Nearby

The town hall standing in the market square and the old weigh house are next door.