Philae Temple, Aswan

The Temple of Isis at Philae is one of the loveliest sites on the Nile, a graceful complex of colonnades, pylons and a delicate riverside kiosk that was among the last strongholds of the ancient Egyptian religion, still in worship into the Christian era. Its story is also one of rescue: when the Aswan dams raised the river the original island was gradually flooded, and in a great international effort in the 1960s and 70s the entire temple was dismantled, its blocks numbered, and rebuilt stone by stone on the higher island of Agilkia nearby, where it stands today. Reached by a short boat trip across the water, it is best seen in the soft light of morning or at the evening sound-and-light show. It is part of the wider group of Nubian monuments saved from the rising lake, which includes Abu Simbel.

What you actually see

• The Temple of Isis - the colonnaded courts and towering pylons of the main temple.
• Trajan's Kiosk - the elegant open riverside pavilion, an icon of Philae.
• The rescue story - the temple's dismantling and rebuilding on a higher island.
• The boat approach - the short crossing to the island, lovely in morning light.

When to go

October to April is the comfortable season, as Aswan is very hot for much of the year; early morning gives the softest light and smallest crowds. The evening sound-and-light show is atmospheric. The boat crossing is short and runs through the day.

Honest expectations

Access is only by motorboat, and boatmen negotiate the fare, so agree a price for the return trip before setting off. Aswan's heat is intense outside winter, so morning visits are wise. The site is popular with Nile cruise groups, busiest mid-morning. It is not the original island, which lies submerged nearby, a fact that surprises some visitors.

Nearby

The Aswan High Dam, the unfinished obelisk and the Nubian villages are close; Abu Simbel is a longer trip south.