Citadel of Qaitbay

Sultan Qaitbay built the fort in the 1470s on the spit at the mouth of the eastern harbour, and the site is the reason to come: this is where the Pharos lighthouse stood, one of the wonders of the ancient world, until earthquakes brought it down over several centuries. Granite and marble from the collapsed lighthouse were reused in the fort, and columns and blocks of clearly ancient origin are visible in the walls and gateway. The building itself is a compact Mamluk coastal fortress with a square keep, a mosque inside it, curtain walls and gun positions facing the sea, restored several times. Underwater, the harbour floor around it holds a scattered field of statuary and masonry that divers and archaeologists have been surveying since the 1990s.

History

The citadel stands on the site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world, which went on working for centuries after the Arab conquest and was restored under Ahmad ibn Tulun around 880; an earthquake in the 11th century damaged its octagonal part, leaving the base as a watchtower with a small mosque on top, and earthquakes in 1303 and 1323 destroyed it completely. Visiting the site in 1477, Sultan al-Ashraf Qaitbay ordered a fortress built, completed by 1479, as part of his coastal defences against the rising Ottoman power, with a mosque inside; its architect was Qagmas al-Eshaqy, the sultan's master of works and later viceroy of Alexandria. The citadel stayed in use through the Mamluk and Ottoman periods, was neglected after 1882, and was restored several times in the 20th century by the Supreme Council of Antiquities (Wikipedia, Citadel of Qaitbay).

What's there

• Reused Pharos stone - ancient granite and marble built into the walls.
• The Mamluk keep - a square tower with a mosque inside.
• Sea-facing gun positions - the fort's working purpose along the curtain wall.
• The harbour view - Alexandria's corniche curving away from the spit.

When to go

Alexandria is at its best from April to November, though the fort is exposed and windy in winter storms. Late afternoon light on the walls and the harbour is best. Two hours. Fridays fill with local families.

Things to know

Almost nothing of the lighthouse is visible above water, so the connection is intellectual rather than visual. The interior is largely empty rooms with little interpretation. The sea wall and spit are often crowded and littered. Wind and spray can be strong.

Nearby

The Corniche runs east toward the library; the Abu al-Abbas mosque is a short walk inland.

Key facts