Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa

The catacombs were cut into the rock in the second century AD and rediscovered in 1900 when a donkey fell through the roof. A spiral staircase winds around an open shaft down through three levels, with bodies once lowered by rope through the middle, and the lowest level is now permanently flooded. What makes the site remarkable is the mixture of traditions in a single tomb: Anubis appears in Roman military uniform, bearded serpents wear the double crown, Medusa heads guard doorways above Egyptian cornices, and a banqueting chamber for funeral meals sits beside classic Egyptian burial niches. The Hall of Caracalla nearby holds the bones of horses and young men, associated by tradition with a massacre in the city under that emperor. It is cool and quiet underground even in high summer.

What you actually see

• The spiral shaft staircase - three levels wound around an open drop.
• Anubis in Roman armour - Egyptian gods carved in classical dress.
• The banqueting chamber - a triclinium cut for funeral meals.
• Serpent and Medusa carvings - Greek and Egyptian guardians on the same door.

When to go

April to November for Alexandria generally, though the catacombs are underground and cool year round, which makes them a good hot-day option. Mornings are quietest. One to two hours.

Honest expectations

The lowest level is flooded and inaccessible, and groundwater is a permanent conservation problem. Photography has been restricted at various times. The stairs are wet and slippery in places. The surrounding district is run-down and not somewhere to wander.

Nearby

Pompey's Pillar is a short walk; the Graeco-Roman Museum is toward the centre.