Saraguro
A Kichwa town whose people are known for wearing black, and for a distinctive silver jewellery.
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The Saraguro are a Kichwa people of the southern highlands, descendants of mitmaqkuna resettled by the Inca from the Bolivian altiplano, and they are recognisable across Ecuador by their dress: black wool, worn by both men and women, with the men in short trousers and long hair braided, and the women in pleated skirts with elaborately worked silver tupu pins and beaded necklaces. Explanations for the black range from mourning for Atahualpa to the simple practicality of undyed dark wool. The town holds a Sunday market and a strong programme of community tourism, with families hosting visitors in the outlying settlements, and the Inti Raymi celebrations in June are among the most substantial in the south.
What you actually see
- Black wool dress - the clothing that identifies the Saraguro.
- Silver tupu pins and beadwork - the jewellery worn with it.
- Community homestays - families hosting in surrounding villages.
- Inti Raymi in June - the solstice celebrations in the town.
When to go
Sunday for the market; June for Inti Raymi. Half a day, longer for a homestay. The town sits at 2,500 metres and is cool.
Honest expectations
It is a small town with limited services and few restaurants. Homestays must be arranged in advance through the community office. Photographing people in dress without permission is intrusive and resented.
Nearby
Loja is south; Cuenca lies north.
What to pack for Saraguro
Chosen from what this place is for. Tap a kit for the full checklist.
Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.
