Saraguro

The Saraguro are a Kichwa people of the southern highlands, descendants of mitmaqkuna resettled by the Inca from the Bolivian altiplano, and they are recognisable across Ecuador by their dress: black wool, worn by both men and women, with the men in short trousers and long hair braided, and the women in pleated skirts with elaborately worked silver tupu pins and beaded necklaces. Explanations for the black range from mourning for Atahualpa to the simple practicality of undyed dark wool. The town holds a Sunday market and a strong programme of community tourism, with families hosting visitors in the outlying settlements, and the Inti Raymi celebrations in June are among the most substantial in the south.

Highlights

• Black wool dress - the clothing that identifies the Saraguro.
• Silver tupu pins and beadwork - the jewellery worn with it.
• Community homestays - families hosting in surrounding villages.
• Inti Raymi in June - the solstice celebrations in the town.

When to go

Sunday for the market; June for Inti Raymi. Half a day, longer for a homestay. The town sits at 2,500 metres and is cool.

What to expect

It is a small town with limited services and few restaurants. Homestays must be arranged in advance through the community office. Photographing people in dress without permission is intrusive and resented.

Nearby

Loja is south; Cuenca lies north.