Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve

Cuyabeno differs from most Amazon destinations in being a flooded forest: for much of the year the Cuyabeno river spreads into a system of lagoons and igapo woodland where the water rises into the trees, so the way to move is by paddle canoe between trunks rather than on trails, and the wildlife concentrates along the edges. Pink river dolphins live in the main lagoon and are seen regularly, along with several monkey species, caiman, anaconda and a heavy bird list. Lodges are strung along the river and packages are typically four or five days, including night canoe trips for caiman and visits to Siona and Kichwa communities. In the low-water months some lagoons shrink and walking replaces paddling.

What you actually see

• Pink river dolphins - resident in the Laguna Grande.
• Paddling between flooded trees - igapo forest reached by canoe.
• Night caiman trips - eyes picked out along the shore.
• Siona and Kichwa communities - the people of the reserve.

When to go

Year round. High water roughly April to September is best for paddling; low water gives more walking and better land wildlife. Four to five days including travel.

Honest expectations

Access involves a flight or a long bus and then hours in a canoe. Mosquitoes are serious. Rain is constant and gear gets wet. Dolphin and wildlife sightings vary; low-water months can strand parts of the route.

Nearby

Lago Agrio is west; the Colombian border lies north.