San Cristobal Island

San Cristobal is among the geologically oldest of the main Galapagos islands and the seat of the provincial government, with Puerto Baquerizo Moreno strung along a bay where sea lions have simply taken over: they sleep on the benches, the boat landings, the steps and most of the town beach, and people walk around them. It was the first island Darwin landed on in 1835. An interpretation centre above the town explains the archipelago's natural and human history well, and trails lead from it to Tijeretas bay for snorkelling and to viewpoints over Kicker Rock. The highlands hold El Junco, a crater lake that is one of the few permanent freshwater bodies in Galapagos.

What you actually see

• Sea lions across the town - animals occupying benches and landings.
• The interpretation centre - the best introduction to the islands.
• El Junco crater lake - permanent freshwater in the highlands.
• Tijeretas bay - snorkelling and the walk from the centre.

When to go

Year round. December to May is warmer and calmer; June to November is cooler with more wind. Two to three days. Direct flights make it a practical entry point.

Honest expectations

Sea lions are loud all night near the front and the smell is strong. They are wild animals and will bite if crowded; keep two metres away. The highlands are often wet and misty. Restaurant choice is limited outside the main street.

Nearby

Kicker Rock is offshore; Santa Cruz lies west.