San Cristobal Island

San Cristobal is among the geologically oldest of the main Galapagos islands and the seat of the provincial government, with Puerto Baquerizo Moreno strung along a bay where sea lions have simply taken over: they sleep on the benches, the boat landings, the steps and most of the town beach, and people walk around them. It was the first island Darwin landed on in 1835. An interpretation centre above the town explains the archipelago's natural and human history well, and trails lead from it to Tijeretas bay for snorkelling and to viewpoints over Kicker Rock. The highlands hold El Junco, a crater lake that is one of the few permanent freshwater bodies in Galapagos.

History

San Cristóbal, once called Chatham Island, is built from three or four fused, extinct volcanoes, and El Junco, its small crater lake, the only source of fresh water in the islands, is what led to its early settlement: it has the oldest permanent settlement in the Galápagos, and it is where Darwin first went ashore in 1835. A penal colony for prisoners from mainland Ecuador was built here in 1880, and it later became a military base and the centre for exporting the island's sugar, coffee, cassava, cattle, fish and lime (Wikipedia, San Cristóbal Island).

What you'll find

• Sea lions across the town - animals occupying benches and landings.
• The interpretation centre - the best introduction to the islands.
• El Junco crater lake - permanent freshwater in the highlands.
• Tijeretas bay - snorkelling and the walk from the centre.

When to go

Year round. December to May is warmer and calmer; June to November is cooler with more wind. Two to three days. Direct flights make it a practical entry point.

Good to know

Sea lions are loud all night near the front and the smell is strong. They are wild animals and will bite if crowded; keep two metres away. The highlands are often wet and misty. Restaurant choice is limited outside the main street.

Nearby

Kicker Rock is offshore; Santa Cruz lies west.

Key facts