Chordeleg

Chordeleg has worked precious metal since before the Spanish arrived, its name usually glossed as a field of gold, and today the streets around its plaza hold dozens of jewellery shops and workshops specialising in filigree, in which fine drawn wire is coiled and soldered into open lace-like patterns for earrings, brooches and crosses. Prices are far below city retail and the range runs from tourist trinkets to serious work. A small municipal museum covers the town's metalworking, weaving and ceramics. It is usually visited as the second stop after Gualaceo, and both towns are strung along a warm valley of orchards below Cuenca, with a Sunday market that fills the plaza.

What you actually see

• Filigree in drawn silver wire - lace patterns coiled and soldered by hand.
• Dozens of workshops on one plaza - the concentration of the trade.
• The municipal craft museum - metalwork, weaving and ceramics.
• Sunday market in the square - the day the town fills.

When to go

Year round; Sunday for the market. Two to three hours. Shops open mornings through late afternoon. Combine with Gualaceo.

Honest expectations

A lot of the stock is mass-produced and imported despite the setting; ask what is made on site. Hallmarking is inconsistent, so buy on trust and inspection. The town is small and takes an hour beyond the shops.

Nearby

Gualaceo is north; Cuenca lies west.