Houska Castle

Houska stands on a sandstone rock in the Kokořínsko forests and was built in the second half of the thirteenth century, most likely as a royal castle of King Ottokar II meant to run the surrounding land, a role the nearby and larger Bezděz soon took over. Its oddities fed a reputation: it had no water source but a rainwater cistern, lay far from trade routes and had few occupants when it was finished. The legend that grew up says it was built over a fissure in the rock that opened into hell and was sealed with a chapel. The chapel is the real interest: its wall paintings date from about 1330 and the early fifteenth century, among the older Gothic murals in Bohemia, and include figures described as demon-like and animal-like beings. The paintings were restored in 1929-1930, and the castle is privately owned and run, with tours playing the legend up considerably.

History

Houska was founded on royal land in the 13th century, probably under King Ottokar II of Bohemia: older studies credited the lords of Dubá and dated it to around 1280-1305, but its architecture points to the 1260s and 1270s and closely resembles the nearby royal castle of Bezděz. It was meant as an administrative centre for the surrounding land, but it was small and could not be enlarged, and Bezděz soon took over that role. The first written mention, in 1316, names Hynáček of the lords of Dubá as "of Houska". It was remodelled in Renaissance style in 1584-1590, stopped being a noble residence in the 18th century and decayed until a renovation in 1823. Princess Hohenlohe bought it in 1897, and Josef Šimonek, president of Škoda, in 1924; under him the Gothic paintings were restored in 1929-1930. His descendants own it, and it has been open to the public since 1999 (Wikipedia, Houska Castle; Czech Wikipedia, Houska).

The main sights

• A castle with no well - only a cistern for rainwater, on a rock far from any trade route.
• Gothic murals of about 1330 - among the oldest in Bohemia, in the chapel.
• Demon-like figures - the animal-like beings in the chapel paintings.
• The gate-to-hell legend - which the tours lean on heavily.

When to go

April to October. Half a day.

Practical notes

The paranormal marketing is thick and some tours are built around it - the murals are the real reason to come. Seasonal opening only. Remote by road with limited public transport.

Nearby

Bezdez castle is north; Kokorin is south.

Key facts