Vis Island

Vis lies roughly forty five kilometres out from Split, farther than any other inhabited Croatian island, and it came to tourism decades later than its neighbours. The result is an island with two proper towns rather than resorts - Vis on the northern side, Komiza facing west under a steep hill - and an interior of vineyards, terraces and stone field huts. Roads are few and mostly narrow. The coastline is largely inaccessible by car, so the best coves are reached by boat, on foot down long paths, or not at all. Mount Hum rises to just under six hundred metres above Komiza and takes in the whole island and the open sea beyond.

What you actually see

• Komiza - a working fishing town below a steep hillside, with a small fortified building on the waterfront.
• Mount Hum - the island's high point above Komiza, reached by a narrow road, with a view over the open Adriatic.
• Stiniva cove - a near enclosed inlet reached by a steep path down or by boat, with a pebble beach behind a rock gate.
• The interior vineyards - terraced fields and stone huts in the central plain, planted with local grape varieties.

When to go

June to September, when ferries and catamarans run at full frequency. Late June and early September are the best balance of warm sea and space. Ferry schedules thin dramatically outside summer and a rough sea can cancel the catamaran. Book vehicle space well ahead in August or leave the car in Split.

Honest expectations

It is a long crossing and a genuine commitment; day trips leave very little time on the island. Prices on Vis are higher than on the mainland because everything arrives by ferry. The best beaches involve steep paths or a boat. Accommodation is limited and books out early. Cruise and excursion boats crowd the Komiza waterfront in the middle of the day.

Nearby

The blue cave on Bisevo is a short boat ride west, and Hvar lies between Vis and the mainland.