Samobor

Samobor sits where the Samobor hills meet the plain west of Zagreb, with a long main square, a stream running through the centre and a ruined castle on the slope above. Its kremsnita - a slab of vanilla custard between two layers of pastry, served warm - is the specific reason a great many people drive out from Zagreb, and the cafes on the square have been arguing about whose is best for decades. The town's carnival, the Fasnik, runs for days before Lent and is one of the older continuous carnival traditions in the country. The hills behind carry walking routes used heavily at weekends.

What you actually see

• The kremsnita - custard slice served warm, the town's calling card.
• A long square with a stream - the centre of Samobor.
• The Fasnik carnival - days of processions before Lent.
• Walking hills behind - Zagreb's weekend ground.

When to go

Year round; February for carnival, autumn for the hills. Half a day.

Honest expectations

It is very busy at weekends with day trippers from Zagreb, and cafe queues are real. The castle above is a ruin with no facilities. The town is small and an afternoon covers it.

Nearby

Zagreb is half an hour east; the Zumberak hills are west.