El Bolsón

El Bolsón lies in a sheltered valley between Bariloche and Esquel, hemmed by the jagged wall of Cerro Piltriquitrón on one side and forested ranges on the other, and its climate is mild enough to grow hops, soft fruit and berries in a region where little else does. Settlers drawn by that valley in the 1970s gave the town its character: an artisans' fair on the plaza three or four days a week selling wood, leather, wool and food, a strong craft-beer tradition built on the local hops, and small producers of jams, cheeses and smoked trout. Around it, valleys of the Azul and Blanco rivers lead into the mountains with a network of trails and mountain refuges that makes the town a serious trekking base.

What you actually see

• The artisans' fair - the long-running craft market on the main plaza.
• The hop farms and breweries - local beer made from valley-grown hops.
• The river valleys - trails up the Azul and Blanco into the mountains.
• Piltriquitrón - the serrated ridge standing over the town.

When to go

November to April for trekking, when refuges are staffed and passes open; January and February are busy and accommodation tightens. Autumn is beautiful and quiet. Winter is wet and grey with limited mountain access.

Honest expectations

The town itself is scruffy and unplanned, which suits some visitors and not others. Rain is frequent even in summer. Trails into the mountains involve river crossings and can close after storms, and refuge places should be booked in season.

Nearby

Lago Puelo is a short drive south; Bariloche lies north on the RN40.