Marjan Hill

Marjan is the wooded hill that closes off the western end of Split, and it starts about ten minutes' walk from the old town. Stone steps climb out of the Varos quarter to a first terrace with a wide view over the harbour and the palace roofs, then a path continues along the spine through Aleppo pine planted over the last century and a half. Small medieval chapels are cut into the south face, including hermit cells in the cliff. The road and trails run right to the tip of the peninsula, and paths drop on both sides to swimming coves. Locals use it daily for running and walking, which keeps it feeling like a park rather than a sight.

What you actually see

• The Varos stairway - the stone steps up from the old town to the first terrace and its view over Split harbour.
• Telegrin - the high point of the peninsula, with a view over the city, Brac, Hvar and Solta.
• The cliff hermitages - small chapels and cells cut into the southern rock face, some medieval.
• Kasjuni and Bene - the swimming coves on the south and north sides, reached by paths through the pines.

When to go

Usable all year, which is unusual on this coast. Winter and spring are ideal for walking the whole length. In summer go early or after five, since the climb from the old town is steep and fully exposed until you reach the trees. Sunset from the western end draws a regular crowd.

Honest expectations

The initial climb is steeper than it looks on a map and there is no shade on the stairway. Pine forest fires have burned parts of the hill in recent years and the scars are visible. The coves get crowded in season and parking on the peninsula is very limited. Some upper paths are rough and poorly marked despite being minutes from a city centre.

Nearby

Diocletian's Palace and the Split waterfront are directly below, and ferries to Brac and Hvar leave from the harbour.