Marjan Hill

Marjan is the wooded hill that closes off the western end of Split, and it starts about ten minutes' walk from the old town. Stone steps climb out of the Varos quarter to a first terrace with a wide view over the harbour and the palace roofs, then a path continues along the spine through Aleppo pine planted over the last century and a half. Small medieval chapels are cut into the south face, including hermit cells in the cliff. The road and trails run right to the tip of the peninsula, and paths drop on both sides to swimming coves. Locals use it daily for running and walking, which keeps it feeling like a park rather than a sight.

History

Marjan's use as a park goes back to Diocletian, whose palace a few minutes away housed 8,000 to 10,000 people, and who had parts of the hill nearest it laid out for their recreation. A small rustic church of St Nicholas, patron of the fishermen, dates from the early 13th century; two and a half kilometres along the southern path stands the 15th-century church of St Jerome, with an altar carved by Andrija Aleši, and above it Renaissance hermitage caves used from the 15th century. On the eastern slope the Old Jewish Cemetery was opened in 1573 and holds more than 700 graves; the last burial was in 1945, when it was closed and protected as a monument. For centuries the rocky hill was simply part of the landscape, then over the last century and a half it became a picnic place and a symbol of Split. In the 1950s it was turned into a forest park: much of it, barren until then, was planted, and roads, footpaths, a marine research institute, a zoo, a botanical garden, a weather station and look-out points joined by a long stairway to the city were built (Wikipedia, Marjan, Split).

What you'll find

• The Varos stairway - the stone steps up from the old town to the first terrace and its view over Split harbour.
• Telegrin - the high point of the peninsula, with a view over the city, Brac, Hvar and Solta.
• The cliff hermitages - small chapels and cells cut into the southern rock face, some medieval.
• Kasjuni and Bene - the swimming coves on the south and north sides, reached by paths through the pines.

When to go

Usable all year, which is unusual on this coast. Winter and spring are ideal for walking the whole length. In summer go early or after five, since the climb from the old town is steep and fully exposed until you reach the trees. Sunset from the western end draws a regular crowd.

What to expect

The initial climb is steeper than it looks on a map and there is no shade on the stairway. Pine forest fires have burned parts of the hill in recent years and the scars are visible. The coves get crowded in season and parking on the peninsula is very limited. Some upper paths are rough and poorly marked despite being minutes from a city centre.

Nearby

Diocletian's Palace and the Split waterfront are directly below, and ferries to Brac and Hvar leave from the harbour.

Key facts