Rincón de la Vieja

Rincón de la Vieja is an active volcano whose flanks put on a display of everything geothermal short of an eruption: along the short Las Pailas loop, mud pots plop and burp, steam hisses from fumaroles, and a small volcanito puffs sulphurous gas, all within an easy walk through dry forest full of howler monkeys, coatis and, in the wet months, an astonishing number of frogs. Longer trails climb to the La Cangreja waterfall, which drops into a pool of an intense blue that comes from the minerals in the water, and to the Escondidas falls. The summit trail is usually closed because of volcanic activity. Around the park boundary, lodges have built out the hot springs, mud baths and canopy tours into a full Guanacaste adventure package, and the dry forest here is quite different from the rainforest of the country's south.

What you actually see

• Las Pailas loop - the mud pots, fumaroles and steaming vents on an easy circuit.
• La Cangreja waterfall - the long walk to a fall dropping into a vivid blue pool.
• The dry forest wildlife - howler monkeys, coatis and abundant birdlife.
• The hot springs and mud baths - the geothermal spas around the park's edge.

When to go

December to April is the dry season, best for the longer trails, which get muddy and are sometimes closed in the wet months; the geothermal features work year-round. Start early, as Guanacaste heat builds fast and the park closes to entry in the afternoon. The park is shut one day a week, usually Monday.

Honest expectations

The summit route is generally closed for volcanic safety, so those hoping to climb the volcano will be disappointed. The walk to La Cangreja is long, hot and exposed in parts, and rangers may close it in wet conditions. The park shuts one day a week and stops admitting visitors in the early afternoon, which catches people out. The hot springs are on private lodge land with their own fees.

Nearby

Liberia and its airport are an hour away; the Guanacaste beaches lie west on the Pacific coast.