The Arenal Hot Springs

Arenal's magma heats groundwater that emerges on the volcano's flanks as a set of thermal rivers, and the road between La Fortuna and the national park is lined with places that have channelled them. At the top end are large landscaped resorts with dozens of pools at graded temperatures, waterfalls and swim-up bars, at prices to match. At the bottom end is the Río Chollín, a stretch of thermal river beside a bridge where anyone can climb down and sit in the water for nothing, which is where a good many locals go. In between are simpler operations with a handful of pools and a fraction of the price.

What you actually see

• The landscaped resorts - graded pools, waterfalls and gardens.
• The free river - the thermal stretch beside the road bridge.
• The mid-range pools - simpler operations at a fraction of the cost.
• Volcano views - from several of the pools, when the cloud lifts.

When to go

Year-round; the springs are warm regardless of weather, and a rainy afternoon is arguably the best time to be in them. Evenings are popular. Resorts charge day rates and the large ones fill in high season, so book ahead.

Honest expectations

Prices at the big resorts are high and day passes often require a minimum food and drink spend on top. The free river has no facilities, no lighting and no supervision, the rocks are slippery, and thefts from parked cars there are a known problem. Water temperatures at some springs are hot enough to be uncomfortable for children.

Nearby

La Fortuna is ten minutes; Arenal volcano and the lake are west.