Tierradentro Archaeological Park

The tombs here were cut into soft volcanic rock roughly between the sixth and tenth centuries, and they are unlike any other burial form in the Americas. A spiral staircase drops through a shaft into a chamber whose carved columns, niches and domed roof carry painted geometric patterns in red, black and white, still legible after a thousand years. Four groups of tombs sit on separate hilltops connected by a walking circuit, with a fifth site, El Tablon, holding carved stone figures closer in style to San Agustin. Two small museums at the entrance cover the archaeology and the region's present-day Nasa communities. Custodians unlock the tombs and the lighting inside is dim.

What you actually see

• The Segovia tombs - the largest group, with painted columns and stairs cut into the rock.
• Alto de San Andres - smaller chambers on a ridge above the village.
• El Tablon - carved stone figures under a shelter, in the San Agustin manner.
• The site museums - pottery, urns and regional ethnography beside the entrance.

When to go

December to March is the drier stretch, though this is wet mountain country in any month. The ticket is valid for two consecutive days, which suits the walking circuit better than trying to do everything in one push. Sites open in the morning and close mid-afternoon, so start early; afternoon cloud and rain are routine.

Honest expectations

Getting here is the hard part, hours of winding road from any direction and rough in the wet. The village has few beds and limited food. The circuit is steep, muddy and mostly unshaded, and some tombs are closed on rotation to control humidity. Flash photography is not allowed inside. Anyone expecting standing monuments will find the interest is entirely underground.

Nearby

San Agustin is a long day's drive south; Popayan is the usual base to the west.