Meili Snow Mountain

Kawagarbo, the highest summit of the Meili range at 6,740 metres, is held sacred by Tibetans and has never been summited: an attempt in 1991 by a joint Chinese and Japanese expedition ended when an avalanche killed all seventeen climbers, and climbing was subsequently prohibited. Pilgrims walk a circuit around the range instead. The standard view is from Feilaisi, a ridge across the Mekong valley where a row of white stupas faces the peaks, and where at sunrise on clear mornings the snow turns gold from the top down. Cloud hides the summits on most days, which makes a clear morning a matter of luck.

What you actually see

• The thirteen peaks - the Meili range across the Mekong valley.
• Feilaisi viewpoint - the stupa row facing the mountains at dawn.
• The golden sunrise - light moving down the snow on clear mornings.
• The pilgrim circuit - the route walked around the sacred range.

When to go

October to April gives the best odds of clear mornings; the summer rains keep the peaks hidden for weeks. Even in winter, several mornings in a row can be clouded. Cold at dawn is severe.

Honest expectations

The mountain is invisible on most days, and many visitors leave without seeing it. Viewpoints charge entry. Altitude at Feilaisi is around 3,400 metres and the road from Shangri-La is long.

Nearby

Yubeng is across the valley; Shangri-La lies southeast.