Harbin Central Street

Zhongyang Dajie runs about a kilometre and a half through central Harbin, laid out from 1898 as the city grew around the Chinese Eastern Railway and built up by Russian, Jewish, Polish and other merchants in Renaissance, Baroque, Art Nouveau and eclectic styles, more than seventy of the buildings now protected. The surface is its other distinction: granite blocks the size and shape of a loaf, laid by hand in 1924, said to have cost a silver rouble each at the time. The street ends at the Songhua River and the Stalin Park embankment. Modern Harbin institutions along it include the Modern Hotel of 1906 and shops selling Russian-style bread, sausage and ice cream eaten outdoors even at minus twenty.

What you actually see

• The bread-loaf paving - granite blocks laid by hand in 1924.
• The European facades - seventy-odd protected buildings in mixed styles.
• The ice cream in winter - a local habit of eating it outdoors in deep cold.
• The river end - Stalin Park and the Songhua embankment.

When to go

December to February for the ice festival season, when the street is coldest and busiest, or June to September for mild weather. Winter temperatures fall below minus twenty-five, which is part of the experience but demands proper clothing.

Honest expectations

The street is thoroughly commercial with chain shops behind the historic facades. Winter cold is severe and outdoor time is limited without serious clothing. Ice festival season fills the street shoulder to shoulder.

Nearby

Saint Sophia Cathedral is a short walk; the ice festival grounds lie across the river.