Baidicheng

Baidicheng stands where the Yangtze enters Qutang Gorge, the shortest and narrowest of the Three Gorges, whose entrance between two cliffs is the scene printed on the ten yuan note. The site is bound up with the Three Kingdoms: Liu Bei is said to have died here entrusting his son to Zhuge Liang, and the halls hold sculptural tableaux of the scene. It is bound up equally with poetry, since Li Bai wrote a famous quatrain about leaving Baidi at dawn, and the temple keeps stelae of poems by visitors over centuries. Rising reservoir water turned the promontory into an island crossed by a bridge.

What you actually see

• The Qutang Gorge mouth - the cliffs framing the entrance, as on the banknote.
• The Three Kingdoms halls - tableaux of Liu Bei entrusting his heir.
• The poetry stelae - inscribed verses from Li Bai onward.
• The island bridge - the crossing made necessary by the reservoir.

When to go

March to May and September to November; summer is very hot and hazy, winter mists often close the gorge view. Cruise stops set the timing for most visitors, usually a morning call.

Honest expectations

Buildings are rebuilt and the tableaux modern. Reservoir levels have raised the river considerably and reduced the drama of the gorge walls. Visits are short and often rushed by ship schedules.

Nearby

Little Three Gorges lie downstream; Fengjie town is west.