Koh Ker

From 928 to 944 the Khmer capital moved from Angkor to Koh Ker, and in that short window an enormous amount was built, then abandoned when the court moved back. What survives, listed by UNESCO in 2023, is scattered through dry forest: dozens of temples, shrines and reservoirs, and at the centre Prasat Thom, a stepped sandstone pyramid rising in seven tiers to about thirty-six metres, quite unlike the usual Khmer temple-mountain and startling to come upon among the trees. A staircase up the back allows visitors to climb to the top for a view over unbroken forest canopy. The site was known for looting and for landmines, and the years of clearance mean the marked paths must be kept to, but it now sees a steady trickle of visitors and remains far quieter than Angkor.

History

Known in inscriptions as Lingapura or Chok Gargyar, Koh Ker was briefly the capital of the whole Khmer Empire under Jayavarman IV, who ruled here from 928 to 941, perhaps because it was his homeland, and under his son Harshavarman II until 944. In those few years, paid for by heavy taxes recorded in inscriptions, about forty temples, the unique seven-tiered pyramid and a huge baray were built, and the art of sculpture reached a high point in what is now called the Koh Ker style. After the capital moved back, building went on here: an inscription mentions the reign of Udayadityavarman I in 1001, and under Jayavarman VII the hospital chapel of Prasat Andong Kuk was added early in the 13th century. More than 180 sanctuaries have been found across 81 square kilometres, but since the area is not fully demined only about two dozen monuments can be visited (Wikipedia, Koh Ker).

The main sights

• Prasat Thom - the seven-tiered pyramid, climbable to a view over the forest.
• The scattered temples - dozens of shrines and prasats through the dry forest.
• The carved lintels - the sculpture that survived the site's long isolation.
• The reservoir - the great baray built for the short-lived capital.

When to go

November to March is the dry season and by far the best for the roads and for walking the forest paths; the rains make the tracks difficult. Going early avoids both the heat and the small tour groups, and the site is usually combined with Beng Mealea on a long day out from Siem Reap.

Good to know

It is a long drive from Siem Reap on roads that vary, and the ticket is separate from the Angkor pass, so budget for both. Landmine clearance means you must stay on the marked paths, which is not a formality. There is almost no shade beyond the forest and no facilities to speak of. The pyramid staircase is steep and exposed.

Nearby

Beng Mealea is on the way back to Siem Reap; Preah Vihear lies further north.

Key facts