Sarajevo

Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is one of Europe's most fascinating and atmospheric cities, a place where the Ottoman East and Habsburg West meet within a few steps. Its heart is the Bascarsija, an old Ottoman bazaar of coppersmiths, cafes and the domed Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, giving way abruptly to grand Austro-Hungarian boulevards. Within a small area stand mosques, Orthodox and Catholic churches and a synagogue, earning it the name Jerusalem of Europe. It is also a city marked by profound history, from 1914 to the 1990s siege.

What you actually see

• Bascarsija - the Ottoman old bazaar and its mosque and cafes.
• The meeting of East and West - the line where the styles change.
• The Latin Bridge - the site of the 1914 assassination.
• The war history - the museums, Tunnel of Hope and memorials.

When to go

May to October, for the warmest, most pleasant weather and lively cafe culture; the surrounding mountains, which hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, offer skiing in winter. Spring and autumn are quieter and atmospheric. The compact old centre is easily explored on foot.

Honest expectations

Sarajevo's recent history is deeply sombre: the 1990s siege left visible scars and its memorials and war museums are harrowing, so the city rewards visitors ready to engage with difficult history alongside its charm. It is a real, lived-in city rather than a polished tourist showpiece. That layered history, the vibrant meeting of cultures and the resilient, warm spirit, though, make it genuinely captivating and moving.

Nearby

The Olympic mountains, the Tunnel of Hope and Mostar are within reach.