Samaipata

Samaipata sits at around 1,650 metres where the last Andean ridges drop into the eastern plains, which gives it a mild climate between the heat of Santa Cruz and the cold of the highlands, and it has drawn a mixed population of Bolivians and long-staying foreigners who have opened cafés, guesthouses and small wineries. Above the town stands El Fuerte, a vast carved sandstone outcrop worked by pre-Inca peoples and later occupied by the Inca, inscribed by UNESCO and the reason most people come. Around are Amboró national park's southern access, the Cuevas waterfalls, condor viewpoints, and walks to the Codo de los Andes ridge. It is the pleasantest base in eastern Bolivia and easy to stay in longer than planned.

What you actually see

• El Fuerte above - the carved rock outcrop on the ridge behind town.
• The plaza and cafés - the relaxed centre of a mixed-population town.
• Amboró access - the southern entrances to the national park.
• Cuevas waterfalls - the falls and pools on the road east.

When to go

April to October is drier and clearer; the wet months bring cloud and mud but the hills are greenest. It is mild year round, with cold surazo fronts occasionally in winter.

Honest expectations

El Fuerte is a separate site with its own fee and a walk or taxi from town. The road from Santa Cruz is winding. The town is small and choice is limited, though better than most Bolivian towns of the size. Amboró trips need arranging with operators.

Nearby

El Fuerte stands above the town; Amboró park lies north and west.