Quillacollo

Quillacollo is effectively a suburb of Cochabamba now, and for most of the year it is an ordinary valley town with a market and a church. In the middle of August it becomes the focus of one of the largest religious gatherings in Bolivia: the festival of the Virgin of Urkupiña, built on a story of an apparition to a shepherd girl on a hillside, which draws hundreds of thousands over several days of processions, folkloric dance troupes in elaborate costume, masses and music. A particular custom belongs to it: pilgrims climb the Calvario hill and break off a piece of rock to take home as a pledge of the wealth or thing they are asking for, returning the following year to give it back. The hillside is visibly quarried by devotion.

What you actually see

• The August procession - dance troupes and pilgrims over several days.
• The Calvario hill - the hillside pilgrims chip rock from as a pledge.
• Folkloric dance - the costumed groups that fill the streets.
• The basilica - the church at the centre of the devotion.

When to go

Mid-August for the festival, which is the reason to come; dates centre on 15 August and the surrounding days. Outside it the town is unremarkable and takes an hour.

Honest expectations

During the festival the town is overwhelmed, transport is jammed and accommodation is in Cochabamba rather than here. Crowds are dense and drinking is heavy. Outside August there is very little to see. The rock-breaking custom has damaged the hillside considerably.

Nearby

Cochabamba lies east; Tunari park rises north.