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Wilder Kaiser

A wall of bare limestone towers above the Tyrolean lowlands, where much of modern rock climbing was worked out.

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WhereTyrol
Nearest cityEllmau, Going, Scheffau; Kufstein about 20 km
Best seasonJune to September
Time to allowTwo days
Getting thereVillages along the southern side; lifts from Ellmau and Scheffau, trails from the valley
EntryFree; lift fares

The Wilder Kaiser is a short range - about twenty kilometres - of vertical limestone rising out of green pasture between Kufstein and St Johann, and its walls are among the most historically important in the sport: from the 1900s climbers including Hans Dülfer and Paul Preuss worked out techniques and grades here that shaped free climbing across Europe, and the Fleischbank and Predigtstuhl east faces remain reference routes. The rock is compact and steep and the range holds almost no permanent snow, which makes the contrast with the meadows below abrupt. Walking below the walls is straightforward on a good hut network - the Gruttenhütte, Gaudeamushütte and Stripsenjochhaus - and the Ellmauer Tor pass crosses between the north and south sides.

What you actually see

  • A wall of bare limestone - twenty kilometres of towers over green pasture.
  • Historic climbing faces - the Fleischbank and Predigtstuhl east walls.
  • A hut network - Gruttenhütte, Gaudeamushütte and Stripsenjochhaus below the walls.
  • The Ellmauer Tor - the pass crossing between the two sides of the range.

When to go

June to September for walking; the rock needs settled weather. Two days.

Honest expectations

Approaches from the valley are long and steep, and lifts shorten only part of it. Thunderstorms build fast on the walls in summer afternoons. Huts must be booked in season.

Nearby

Kufstein is west; St Johann and Kitzbühel are south-east.

What to pack for Wilder Kaiser

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Opening times, ticket prices and seasonal closures change - check the official source before you go: official site.

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