Rosario

Rosario is Argentina's third city and one of its most liveable, a place of wide streets and belle époque and art deco buildings raised on grain money, spread along a bend of the Paraná where the river runs a kilometre wide past islands and sandbanks. Its landmark is the Monumento Nacional a la Bandera, a monumental complex with a tower that can be climbed for views over city and river, built where the national flag was first raised in 1812. The riverfront has been reclaimed from old port land into a long chain of parks, promenades and beaches, and river boats cross to island beaches on the far side. The city's museums, particularly the Castagnino and MACRO contemporary art collections, are strong, and its café and music scene runs late.

History

The area, known as the Pago de los Arroyos for its streams, was home to native peoples, some of them in Franciscan missions, before Captain Luís Romero de Piñeda received part of the land in 1689 and set up the first permanent settlement, a farm estate; the Jesuits bought another part in 1719, and in 1724 Santiago de Montenegro built a mill and a chapel and drew plans for a town. Rosario is usually said to have been founded on 7 October 1793, with 457 people, became a village in 1823, and Charles Darwin, passing through, described it as a large town of about 2,000; in 1841 Rosas closed the rivers to foreign ships and so its port to foreign trade. After locals backed Justo José de Urquiza, the victor of Caseros, he asked for city status for Rosario, granted on 3 August 1852 (Wikipedia, Rosario).

What to look for

• The Flag Memorial - the monumental complex and its climbable tower.
• The riverfront parks - kilometres of promenade, beaches and reclaimed port land.
• The Paraná islands - sandy beaches reached by boat across the river.
• The art museums - the Castagnino collection and the MACRO silo galleries.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant; summer is hot and humid, and winter is grey but mild. The river is at its best in the warm months when the island beaches operate. Weekends bring the waterfront alive.

Practical notes

Rosario is a working city with the usual urban problems, and some riverside areas are best avoided at night. Its sights are diffuse rather than concentrated, so getting around takes time. The island beaches depend on river levels, which have fallen sharply in recent drought years.

Nearby

Santa Fe city lies north up the river; Buenos Aires is a few hours southeast.

Key facts