Rosario

Rosario is Argentina's third city and one of its most liveable, a place of wide streets and belle époque and art deco buildings raised on grain money, spread along a bend of the Paraná where the river runs a kilometre wide past islands and sandbanks. Its landmark is the Monumento Nacional a la Bandera, a monumental complex with a tower that can be climbed for views over city and river, built where the national flag was first raised in 1812. The riverfront has been reclaimed from old port land into a long chain of parks, promenades and beaches, and river boats cross to island beaches on the far side. The city's museums, particularly the Castagnino and MACRO contemporary art collections, are strong, and its café and music scene runs late.

What you actually see

• The Flag Memorial - the monumental complex and its climbable tower.
• The riverfront parks - kilometres of promenade, beaches and reclaimed port land.
• The Paraná islands - sandy beaches reached by boat across the river.
• The art museums - the Castagnino collection and the MACRO silo galleries.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant; summer is hot and humid, and winter is grey but mild. The river is at its best in the warm months when the island beaches operate. Weekends bring the waterfront alive.

Honest expectations

Rosario is a working city with the usual urban problems, and some riverside areas are best avoided at night. Its sights are diffuse rather than concentrated, so getting around takes time. The island beaches depend on river levels, which have fallen sharply in recent drought years.

Nearby

Santa Fe city lies north up the river; Buenos Aires is a few hours southeast.