Moconá Falls

The Saltos del Moconá are unlike other waterfalls: instead of crossing the river, the fall runs along it, where a geological fault splits the Uruguay river bed lengthwise and the water on one side pours sideways into the deeper channel for as much as three kilometres, with drops of up to twelve metres. The effect only appears when the river runs at the right level; too much water and the fall drowns entirely, too little and it fades to trickles, so any visit depends on conditions in the days before. The setting is dense Atlantic forest inside the Moconá provincial park and the surrounding Yabotí biosphere reserve, with trails, viewing catwalks and boat trips that run close to the wall of falling water.

What you actually see

• The lengthwise falls - water pouring sideways along the river for kilometres.
• The boat approach - trips running close to the base of the falling wall.
• The Atlantic forest - dense subtropical jungle in the surrounding reserve.
• The catwalks - viewing platforms along the riverside where levels allow.

When to go

April to October generally has more workable levels, but the falls depend entirely on recent rainfall upstream, so checking conditions before travelling is essential. After heavy rain the falls disappear beneath high water for days or weeks.

Honest expectations

There is a real chance of arriving to find nothing to see, and no refund for the weather. Access roads are partly unpaved and slow, and the last stretch can be difficult after rain. Boat trips depend on the same conditions as the falls.

Nearby

El Soberbio is the base town; the Yabotí reserve and its lodges surround the park.