Malargüe

Malargüe is the last town of any size in southern Mendoza before the RN40 runs on into Neuquén, and it serves a huge and nearly empty area: Las Leñas to the northwest, the Caverna de las Brujas to the south, the Payunia lava fields to the southeast and Laguna Llancanelo's flamingos to the east. Its own reputation rests on chivito, kid goat raised on the dry scrub and roasted whole on an iron cross over coals, celebrated in a festival each January and served in restaurants around the town. The Pierre Auger cosmic ray observatory has its headquarters here, and the planetarium reflects a local interest in the clear southern skies.

What you actually see

• The chivito - kid goat roasted over open fire, the town's signature dish.
• The tour base - departures for Payunia, the caves and Llancanelo.
• The planetarium - the observatory-linked centre in town.
• The dry scrub country - the volcanic steppe surrounding the town.

When to go

October to April for road access to the volcanic areas; the chivito festival falls in January. Winter serves the ski traffic to Las Leñas but closes many outlying routes. Nights are cold at this altitude all year.

Honest expectations

The town is plain and its interest is as a base. Every excursion is long, mostly on gravel, and several require a guide by regulation. Accommodation and restaurants are limited and fill during the ski season and festival.

Nearby

Las Leñas lies northwest; La Payunia and the Caverna de las Brujas are south and southeast.