Esteros del Iberá

The Esteros del Iberá are a vast wetland in the northeastern province of Corrientes, a shifting expanse of marshes, shallow lagoons, floating vegetation islands and grassland that ranks among the largest freshwater wetlands in the world. It is one of the best places in South America to see wildlife easily and at close range: from a boat gliding through the reeds you pass capybaras lazing on the banks, caimans basking, marsh deer wading, and an extraordinary richness of birds, from screamers to storks to the rare strange-tailed tyrant. A long rewilding effort has reintroduced species that had vanished from the region, including giant anteaters, pampas deer and, remarkably, jaguars, now breeding here again. The base village of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini is small and unhurried, and the experience is gentle, close and genuinely wild.

History

The name comes from the Guaraní ý berá, "bright water". Since 1982 much of the wetland has been protected as the Iberá Provincial Reserve, about 13,000 square kilometres and the largest such area in Argentina. Poaching, cattle ranching and forestry once threatened its wildlife, and a rewilding project has since brought back species that had disappeared, among them the jaguar, while trying to turn the local economy towards tourism so the animals stay safe (Wikipedia, Iberá Wetlands).

Highlights

• Boat safaris in the marshes - close encounters with capybara, caiman and marsh deer.
• The birdlife - one of Argentina's richest concentrations, hundreds of species.
• Rewilded species - giant anteaters, pampas deer and reintroduced jaguars.
• Night walks and horseback rides - other ways to explore the reserve from the village.

When to go

April to October is drier and cooler, the most comfortable time and good for wildlife; summer is very hot and humid with intense sun. Wildlife is easiest to see in the softer light of early morning and late afternoon boat trips. The dirt access roads can become difficult after heavy rain.

What to expect

Access is slow: the main gateway village is reached by long, sometimes rough dirt roads that can turn to mud after rain, and public transport is limited, so plan the journey. It is a wetland, so heat, humidity and mosquitoes are part of it in the warm months. Wildlife is wild, so sightings, especially of the elusive jaguars, are never guaranteed, though capybara and caiman are near-certain.

Nearby

The Jesuit mission ruins of San Ignacio Miní and the Iguazú Falls lie to the northeast in Misiones.

Key facts