Calilegua National Park

Calilegua protects the largest expanse of yungas cloud forest in Argentina, a band of subtropical mountain jungle that climbs the eastern flank of the Andes from around 350 metres to peaks above 3,000. The change with altitude is dramatic: humid lowland forest of giant timber trees and lianas gives way to laurel and cedar, then to alder and finally to open high grassland wrapped in cloud. It is one of the richest wildlife areas in the country, home to jaguar, tapir, brown brocket deer and the taruca, and to more than three hundred bird species, among them toucans, guans and the black-and-chestnut eagle. A gravel road climbs through the park with trailheads along the way, from short interpretive loops in the humid forest to long climbs onto the ridges.

What you actually see

• The cloud forest - dense yungas jungle of lianas, ferns and giant trees.
• The altitude bands - forest changing character as the road climbs toward the ridges.
• The birdlife - toucans, guans, parrots and more than three hundred recorded species.
• The trails - short interpretive walks and longer climbs from the park road.

When to go

April to November, the drier months, when the gravel road is passable and trails are less slick; the summer rains can close access altogether. Early morning is best for birds and for the chance of mist in the canopy. Rain is possible in any season.

Honest expectations

Cloud forest hides its wildlife: jaguars and tapirs are almost never seen, and even birds take patience and a guide to find. The road is unpaved and rough after rain, and mosquitoes and biting flies are constant in the humid lower forest. Facilities inside the park are minimal.

Nearby

Libertador General San Martín is the gateway town; the Quebrada de Humahuaca lies west over the mountains.