Belén

Belén sits in a dry valley in western Catamarca, an unassuming town of low houses that has built a national reputation on textiles: it is known across Argentina as the cuna del poncho, the cradle of the poncho, and its workshops weave vicuña, llama and sheep fibre into ponchos, blankets and rugs, much of it still on wooden looms and dyed with local plants. Shops along the main streets sell directly from the weavers, and prices for vicuña reflect how rare the fibre is. Above the town a hill carries a statue of the Virgin of Belén with a view over the valley, and a small archaeological museum holds finds from the surrounding sites, which are numerous: this valley has been settled and farmed for well over a thousand years.

What you actually see

• The weaving workshops - looms working vicuña, llama and sheep fibre.
• The poncho shops - direct sales from weavers along the main streets.
• The hilltop virgin - the statue and viewpoint above the town.
• The archaeological museum - finds from the valley's long settlement.

When to go

April to November for comfortable weather; summers are very hot in this dry valley. Weekday mornings are when workshops are at work. The town is a useful stop on the long RN40 drive between Catamarca and the puna.

Honest expectations

Belén is plain and quiet, with little to see beyond the weaving and a short walk. Genuine vicuña goods are expensive and often sold out; cheaper items are usually llama or blends. Services are limited and the town shuts down in the afternoon heat.

Nearby

El Shincal and Londres lie a short drive south; the road north climbs to the puna and Antofagasta.