Khami Ruins

When Great Zimbabwe declined, the Torwa state built its capital at Khami, and what survives is a UNESCO-listed complex of terraced dry-stone platforms stepping up a hillside above the Khami river. The building style shifted here: instead of the massive free-standing walls of Great Zimbabwe, Khami's builders faced retaining terraces with decorative stonework in chevron, herringbone and checkerboard bands, creating platforms for houses that have long since gone. Portuguese and Chinese trade goods found in excavation show how far the state's networks reached. It is far quieter than Great Zimbabwe and, for many visitors, more atmospheric because of it.

What you actually see

• The decorated terraces - chevron and herringbone stonework on the retaining walls.
• The Hill Complex - the royal platforms at the top of the site.
• The cross - a Dominican cross left on the site by early Portuguese contact.
• The site museum - excavation finds including imported trade goods.

When to go

The cooler dry months from April to September are the most comfortable for walking the terraces. Summer brings heat and thunderstorms. Mornings give the best light on the patterned stonework.

Honest expectations

Khami sees very few visitors, which is part of the appeal but also means limited facilities and sometimes no guide on duty - arranging one through Bulawayo makes a large difference to understanding what you are seeing. The site is spread over a hillside with uneven ground. Signage is minimal. Combine it with the Bulawayo museum, which holds context and finds from the region.

Nearby

Bulawayo, the Matobo Hills and the Natural History Museum in the city.