Sonoma Valley

Vines were planted at the mission here in the 1820s and Agoston Haraszthy founded Buena Vista in 1857, among the earliest wineries in the state. The valley runs north from the town of Sonoma between the Mayacamas and Sonoma mountains, cooled by fog drawn up from San Pablo Bay, which suits chardonnay and pinot noir at the southern end and heavier reds further north. Sonoma Plaza, laid out in 1835 by Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, is the largest plaza in California, with the mission, the barracks and the site of the short-lived Bear Flag Republic on its edges. The valley is less crowded and less expensive than Napa, which locals do not advertise loudly.

What to look for

• Buena Vista, founded 1857 - among the state's earliest wineries.
• Fog off San Pablo Bay - what makes the southern end work.
• Sonoma Plaza of 1835 - the largest plaza in California.
• A quieter alternative to Napa - over the ridge to the east.

When to go

April to October; harvest is late August into October. A full day.

Good to know

Tasting fees have risen sharply and most wineries now require appointments. Driving between tastings is a legal and practical problem - use a driver. Wildfire seasons have closed parts of the valley in recent years. Harvest weekends are busy.

Nearby

Napa Valley is east over the hill; the Russian River is north-west.