Liwa and the Empty Quarter

Liwa is a crescent of oases along the northern rim of the Rub' al Khali, the Empty Quarter, which is the largest continuous sand desert in the world. The dunes here are on a scale that resets expectations: Moreeb Dune, the best known, rises roughly three hundred metres from base to crest and has a face steep enough that it hosts an annual hill-climb motorsport event. Beyond the oases the sand runs unbroken towards Saudi Arabia. The area is the ancestral home of the ruling family of Abu Dhabi, and its date farms remain productive. A handful of desert resorts sit among the dunes, and the sunset colour on sand of this scale is the reason most people make the drive.

What you actually see

• Moreeb Dune - one of the tallest accessible dunes, with a steep motorsport face.
• The dune road - the tarmac running along the oasis crescent with sand on both sides.
• Sunset from a high crest - the light on unbroken sand towards the Empty Quarter.
• Liwa date farms - working oasis agriculture along the crescent.

When to go

October to March. Summer temperatures here are among the highest in the country and outdoor activity is genuinely dangerous. The Liwa festival, with dune climbs and camel events, runs in the cooler months.

Honest expectations

Driving on the dunes requires a proper four-wheel drive, deflated tyres and experience; every season sees vehicles stuck or rolled by people who underestimated it. Never go into the sand alone or without telling someone. Mobile coverage disappears quickly. Accommodation is limited and the resorts are expensive; the alternative is a long day trip from Abu Dhabi.

Nearby

Abu Dhabi is three hours north; the Saudi border lies south across the sand.