Odesa

Odesa, spread along the Black Sea coast, is one of Ukraine's most characterful cities, an elegant nineteenth-century port long famous for its cosmopolitan spirit, humour and love of life. Founded as a grand imperial city, it boasts leafy boulevards lined with graceful pastel buildings, the monumental sweep of the Potemkin Steps rising from the harbour, and one of the most beautiful opera houses in Europe. A city of cafés, seaside promenades, markets and legend, its historic centre has been recognised by UNESCO. Odesa's blend of faded grandeur, sea air and irrepressible charm makes it utterly distinctive.

What you actually see

• The Potemkin Steps - the monumental stairway rising from the harbour.
• The Opera House - one of Europe's most beautiful opera theatres.
• The boulevards - the leafy avenues of pastel imperial buildings.
• The seafront - the promenades, beaches and Black Sea air.

When to go

May to September is warm and sunny, perfect for the seaside promenades, beaches and café terraces, with the city at its most lively in high summer; late spring and early autumn are pleasant and quieter. The soft Black Sea light suits the pastel boulevards beautifully.

Honest expectations

Some of Odesa's grand old buildings show their age behind their elegant facades, and its beaches are pleasant city beaches rather than pristine coast, busy in summer. As the elegant, witty pearl of the Black Sea, with its monumental steps, glorious opera house and irrepressible seaside spirit, though, Odesa is a genuinely charming and characterful city.

Nearby

The seaside districts, the catacombs and the Black Sea coast lie around the city.