Ait Benhaddou

Ait Benhaddou is a fairytale earthen city on the edge of the Sahara, a UNESCO ksar of red mud-brick kasbahs and houses stacked dramatically against a hillside above a river. Once a stop on the caravan route between the desert and Marrakech, its crenellated towers and rammed-earth walls glow in the desert light, and its cinematic looks have made it a favourite film set for epics and series.

History

The site has been fortified since the 11th century, in the Almoravid period, because it stands in the Ounila Valley on one of the main trans-Saharan routes, leading over the Tizi n'Tichka pass, one of the few ways across the Atlas between Marrakesh and the Draa Valley at the edge of the Sahara. None of the present buildings is thought to be older than the 17th century, though they were probably built in the same way as for centuries before. As the valley lost its strategic importance in the 20th century the ksar emptied, and most people now live in the modern village across the river, from farming and tourism; it became a World Heritage Site in 1987, a pedestrian bridge was finished in 2011 to link it with the new village and perhaps draw people back, and it was damaged by the earthquake that struck southern Morocco in September 2023 (Wikipedia, Aït Benhaddou).

What to look for

• The stacked kasbahs - the red earthen towers rising up the hillside.
• The hilltop granary - the climb to the top for views over the valley.
• The film locations - the ksar's role as a set for famous films and series.
• The desert setting - the earthen city against the mountains and palms.

When to go

Spring and autumn for pleasant weather; go early or late for the warm light on the earthen walls and to avoid the tour crowds and midday heat. It is a common stop on the route to the desert from Marrakech.

Practical notes

It is a popular stop on the desert route, so tour groups arrive midday; early or late gives the best light and fewer crowds. Only a few families still live in the old ksar, much of it restored for visitors and film. It is a photogenic half-day stop rather than a long visit.

Nearby

Ouarzazate and its film studios are close; the road leads over the Atlas to Marrakech or on to the desert.

Key facts