The Ssese Islands

The Ssese archipelago is a scatter of eighty-odd islands in the northwestern corner of Lake Victoria, of which Buggala is the largest and the one with the ferry, the road and most of the accommodation. What people come for is a slower gear: forested shorelines, small sandy beaches, fish eagles overhead, and lakeside lodges where very little happens. There are no large mammals and no big-ticket sights, which is precisely the appeal after a safari circuit. The islands hold spiritual significance in Buganda tradition as the home of certain deities, and palm oil plantations have expanded across parts of Buggala in recent decades, which has changed the island's appearance considerably.

What you actually see

• Lakeside beaches on Buggala - sandy stretches around Lutoboka and Mutambala.
• Forest walks - remaining patches of shoreline forest with monkeys and birds.
• Fishing villages - the working side of island life and the day's catch.
• The ferry crossing - three hours across the lake from Entebbe.

When to go

The drier windows, June to August and December to February, are best for the beaches and the crossing. Ferries run to a schedule that thins at weekends and in bad weather.

Honest expectations

Bilharzia is present in Lake Victoria and swimming carries a real risk, which lodges vary in how honestly they explain; treatment is straightforward but the risk is not zero. Malaria prophylaxis matters here. The ferry is slow and the schedule limited, so missing it costs a day. Palm oil planting has removed a lot of the forest that older guidebooks describe.

Nearby

Entebbe and the botanical gardens are across the water; Masaka lies on the mainland route.