Turkish Hammam Tradition

The hammam descends from the Roman and Byzantine bath by way of Islamic requirements for washing, and the Ottoman version settled into a form that has barely changed: a domed changing hall, a warm room to acclimatise, and a hot room with a heated marble platform in the middle, the göbek taşı, where bathers lie and sweat before anything else happens. Then comes the kese, a coarse mitt worked over the skin by an attendant, which removes an alarming quantity of it; then the foam wash, poured from a cloth bag worked into lather; then rinsing with bowls of water from marble basins, and cold water at the end. Historically the hammam was as much social institution as bath - bridal parties, gossip, business, and the only regular outing many women had. Neighbourhood hammams still work that way and cost very little; the restored monuments in Istanbul serve visitors at many times the price.

What you actually see

• The göbek taşı - the heated marble slab at the centre.
• The kese scrub - the coarse mitt worked by an attendant.
• The foam wash - lather poured from a cloth bag.
• The domed hot room - steam under pierced glass and stone.

When to go

Year-round, and most enjoyable in winter. Men's and women's hours or sections are separate everywhere - check the schedule of the particular bath.

Honest expectations

The scrub is vigorous and not gentle. Bring or rent a peştemal; most baths provide one. Neighbourhood hammams are cheap and unglamorous; historic ones charge tourist prices. Tipping attendants is customary.

Nearby

Cağaloğlu and Kılıç Ali Paşa in Istanbul are the famous historic examples; Bursa's thermal baths at Çekirge use spring water.