İskender Kebab

İskender Efendi is credited with turning the döner spit upright in Bursa in the 1860s - previously meat was grilled horizontally - and the dish named after him followed from it. Thin slices of lamb döner are laid over squares of pide bread, spooned with a tomato sauce, served with a quenelle of thick yogurt and grilled tomato and pepper alongside, and then a waiter arrives with a pan of butter browned over heat and pours it foaming over the plate at the table. That last step is the point and it should be done in front of you. The family firm still trades in Bursa under the İskender name, which is a registered trademark, and several long-established restaurants in the city compete for the claim. Portions are sold by size - a bir buçuk, one and a half, is standard for anyone hungry. It is rich, and one plate is generally enough for the day.

What you actually see

• The butter pour - browned butter poured at the table.
• The layered plate - döner over pide with tomato sauce.
• The yogurt - thick, cold, served alongside the hot meat.
• The upright spit - the vertical döner Bursa is credited with.

When to go

Year-round; lunch is the traditional time. The well-known Bursa houses fill at midday and some close early evening.

Honest expectations

It is very rich - the butter is not optional and portions are large. Prices in the named Bursa restaurants are above the local average. Versions elsewhere in the country vary widely in quality.

Nearby

Ulu Cami, Koza Han and the covered bazaar are all in central Bursa within walking distance of the main restaurants.