Wat Tham Pha Daen

Wat Tham Pha Daen is a forest monastery on a sandstone hill in Phanna Nikhom district, and its distinguishing work is carving: over years, monks and craftsmen have cut reliefs directly into the natural rock faces and boulders around the site, depicting Buddhist narrative, figures and decorative panels, so the sculpture is part of the hill rather than placed on it. Higher up is a hall built in the shape of a boat, representing the vessel carrying beings across to the far shore, with a viewing terrace looking out over the plain and the Phu Phan range. Other structures include shrines built into caves and rock overhangs, and stairways linking the levels. It is a working monastery of the forest tradition rather than a tourist site, and the atmosphere reflects that - quiet, without stalls or ticketing. The road up is steep and the site involves a fair amount of climbing between levels in the sun.

What you actually see

• The rock carvings - reliefs cut directly into the natural sandstone.
• The boat hall - the vessel-shaped building at the upper level.
• The cave shrines - built into overhangs and hollows in the hill.
• The plain view - over the country toward the Phu Phan range.

When to go

November to February. Early or late; the climbing between levels is unshaded. Two hours covers the site. It is a working monastery, so quiet is expected.

Honest expectations

Steep road up and a fair amount of climbing between levels in the sun. No facilities, no ticketing and no interpretation in English. It is a meditation monastery and behaviour is expected to match.

Nearby

Sakon Nakhon town and Nong Han are south-east; Phu Phan National Park is south.