Wat Rakhang

Wat Rakhang Kositaram dates to the Ayutthaya period and takes its name from an event in the early Bangkok era: a bell of exceptional tone was dug up in the grounds, Rama I had it moved to Wat Phra Kaeo and, in exchange, gave the temple five bells. Ringing the bells here for good fortune became a practice, and the belief attached is that it makes a person's name known - which is why Thai visitors with something to promote, and students before exams, come specifically to ring them. On the riverbank in front, vendors sell fish and eels to release into the Chao Phraya as merit-making, a widespread Thai practice with an environmental complication: released animals are often bought and recaptured, and non-native species released this way have caused problems. The temple also has a Rama I-period wooden scripture library with murals, moved from his residence, which is the quieter thing worth seeing.

What you actually see

• The bell tower - bells rung for fortune, and the story behind the name.
• The scripture library - Rama I's wooden building with early murals.
• The fish release - merit-making on the riverbank, and its complications.
• The river position - directly opposite the Grand Palace.

When to go

November to February. The cross-river ferry from Tha Chang takes minutes. An hour covers it. It is quiet compared with the temples on the opposite bank.

Honest expectations

Fish and eel release is sold hard on the bank; the practice recycles animals and releases non-natives, and declining is reasonable. Temple dress code applies. The scripture library is not always open.

Nearby

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are across the river; Wat Arun is downstream on the same bank.