Wat Phra That Phanom

That Phanom is a small town on the Mekong with one enormous thing in it. The chedi rises about fifty-seven metres, a tall white tapering tower with a heavily gilded upper section and a golden finial, and it is the focus of devotion for the whole northeast as well as for Lao Buddhists on the far bank. The original structure collapsed after prolonged rain in 1975 and was rebuilt within a few years to the same profile, so what stands is faithful but new. Around the base are pilgrims circling with lotus and incense, sellers of offerings, and a wide paved terrace. The setting is flat, hot and unmistakably a border river town.

What you actually see

• The chedi - the white and gold tower visible from across the river.
• The terrace circuit - pilgrims walking the base with lotus buds and incense.
• The compound museum - donated objects and images of the older structure.
• The Mekong front - the promenade and market a few streets away.

When to go

November to February is the coolest and clearest period on the Mekong. The great festival falls around the full moon of the third lunar month, usually in February, when the town fills with pilgrims from across the northeast and from Laos and accommodation disappears entirely. Outside that week the compound is calm even at weekends.

Honest expectations

That Phanom is a long way from anywhere: several hours from Udon Thani or a flight to Nakhon Phanom and a bus. The monument is essentially a 1970s rebuild, which matters to some visitors. Dress rules are enforced strictly. The paving is blinding at midday, there is no shade on the terrace, and the town offers little else.

Nearby

The Mekong promenade at Nakhon Phanom and the riverside road north toward Ban Phaeng.