Nan Boat Races

Nan's boat racing is recorded from the eighteenth century and is tied to the end of Buddhist Lent - the tradition connects to the naga, the serpent of river belief, and the boats are built accordingly: a hull cut from a single large tree, up to thirty metres long, with a carved and painted naga head rising at the prow and a tail at the stern, crewed by up to fifty paddlers from a village or temple community. The boats belong to communities rather than individuals and are kept in sheds at temples between seasons; the carving and the blessing of a new boat are substantial local events. Races run over set weekends between September and November on the Nan river through the town, with heats through the day, crowds along both banks and a market alongside. The chief race weekend draws the largest crowds and accommodation in Nan books out for it.

What you actually see

• The naga boats - single-tree hulls up to thirty metres with carved serpent prows.
• The crews - up to fifty paddlers from a village or temple community.
• The riverbank crowds - both banks lined through the racing days.
• The Lent connection - the timing tied to the end of the Buddhist rains retreat.

When to go

September to November, on the announced race weekends - dates vary yearly and are set locally. Nan accommodation books out for the main weekend.

Honest expectations

Dates change each year and are announced locally rather than far ahead. Accommodation in Nan is limited and fills. Riverbank viewing is crowded and unshaded. Nan is a long drive from anywhere.

Nearby

Wat Phumin and the Nan museum are in the town; Doi Phu Kha is north-east.