Oshi Palav

Oshi palav is built in one heavy pot in a fixed order: meat browned in oil, then onion, then carrot cut in long batons, then water and spice, and finally rice laid on top and steamed without stirring so the layers stay separate until it is turned out. There are dozens of regional versions. It is the dish of weddings, funerals and any occasion where people gather, and cooking it for a crowd is a man's job by custom. UNESCO inscribed it in 2016.

What you actually see

• The layering - meat, onion, carrot and rice built up and steamed without stirring.
• The single pot - the heavy kazan the whole dish is cooked in.
• The regional versions - dozens of local variations across the country.
• The occasions - the gatherings the dish is cooked for.

When to go

Year round; it is served at any chaikhana. Weddings and holidays are when it is cooked in quantity. Navruz in late March is a peak.

Honest expectations

Restaurant versions vary enormously and the best is usually made at home or at a gathering. It is very rich and heavy on oil by most standards. Vegetarian versions are not part of the tradition.

Nearby

It is served across the country, and Dushanbe's chaikhanas are the easiest place to start.