Maolin Valley

Maolin is a deep valley of the Rukai people in the southern end of the central range, and its distinction is entomological. From roughly November to March, purple crow butterflies migrate south from the mountains and gather here in sheltered gullies in enormous numbers, hanging in the trees and lifting in shimmering clouds when disturbed. It is one of only two known mass butterfly overwintering phenomena in the world, and researchers band individuals here to track the return migration in spring. Beyond the butterflies the valley has suspension bridges, a river gorge, Rukai villages with slate-built houses and stone carving, and hot springs in the riverbed. Roads through here have been rebuilt more than once after typhoon damage.

What you actually see

• The overwintering butterflies - purple crow butterflies gathered in sheltered gullies in winter.
• The suspension bridges - long footbridges across the gorge between the valley villages.
• Rukai slate villages - houses and walls built from stacked dark slate, with stone carving.
• The river gorge - a steep cut with clear pools and riverbed hot springs at the head of the valley.

When to go

The butterfly season runs from about November to March and peaks in the winter months; outside it the main reason to come is gone. Mornings are best, when the insects are still clustered and warming rather than dispersed. Roads are more reliable in the dry season. Avoid the summer and autumn typhoon months entirely.

Honest expectations

The valley has been badly hit by typhoons in the past and sections of road and trail have taken years to reopen, so conditions change and it is worth checking before setting out. Butterfly numbers vary from year to year and a bad season is a disappointment. Getting here without a car is very difficult, mountain driving is slow, and facilities in the valley are limited.

Nearby

Meinong, a Hakka town known for its oil-paper umbrellas, is at the foot of the mountains.