Arwad Island

Arwad is a rock a few kilometres off Tartus entirely covered by its town - Syria's only inhabited island, ancient Arados, a Phoenician sea-kingdom that once ruled this coast. Lanes too narrow for cars wind between tall houses to small squares; wooden boats are still built and repaired along the shore as they have been for millennia; and two small forts, one Ayyubid and one crusader-era, stand among the houses. The crossing itself, with Tartus receding behind, is half the pleasure.

What you actually see

• The lanes - a car-free maze covering the whole rock.
• The boatyards - wooden hulls taking shape on the shore.
• The forts - the island's two small strongholds.
• The crossing - the short voyage from Tartus harbour.

When to go

April to June and September to November are mild with calm crossings. Summer weekends are crowded with local visitors. Winter swell can interrupt boats.

Honest expectations

The island is densely packed and can feel scruffy; rubbish and crowding are real on busy days. Fort opening is irregular. There are no beaches to speak of.

Nearby

Tartus is across the water, and Amrit is on the coast south.