Gruyères

Gruyères is one cobbled street on a ridge, closed to traffic, running from a gate up to a castle that the counts of Gruyère held from the thirteenth century until they went bankrupt in 1554. The village is undeniably pretty and undeniably geared to visitors, and both things can be true at once. The castle is genuinely worth the ticket, with painted rooms, a Savoyard garden and a view across the pre-Alps. Below the hill in Pringy, La Maison du Gruyère is a working demonstration dairy where you watch the copper vats being turned and taste the cheese at different ages, which is more informative than it sounds, and a short drive away in Broc the Cailler chocolate factory runs tours of its own. The unexpected addition is the HR Giger Museum in the village, run by the estate of the Swiss artist who designed the creature in Alien.

What you actually see

• Gruyères Castle - eight centuries of building, painted rooms and a formal garden.
• La Maison du Gruyère - the demonstration dairy at Pringy, with tastings of the cheese at several ages.
• The HR Giger Museum and bar - the Alien designer's collection, an odd and memorable contrast to the castle.
• The village street - a single traffic-free cobbled lane inside the walls.

When to go

Late spring to early autumn for the pre-Alpine scenery, and December if you want the village without the coach parties. Midweek mornings are noticeably calmer than weekend afternoons in summer.

Honest expectations

This is a village that lives on visitors and does not pretend otherwise. Prices in the restaurants along the single street reflect that, and in peak season the lane can be shoulder to shoulder. The castle and the dairy are both worth the time; the fondue served with a view is worth it mainly for the view.

Nearby

The Cailler chocolate factory at Broc is a short trip; Lake Gruyère and the Fribourg pre-Alps surround the village.