Charmey

Charmey lies in the Jaun valley above Bulle, in the Gruyere cheese country, and it keeps the full seasonal cycle of alp farming: the Poya in spring, when decorated herds are driven up to the high pastures, and the Desalpe in autumn, when they come back down through the village with flowers and the largest bells - both are working movements that have become events people come to watch. Poya is also the name of the naive paintings of these processions made on wooden panels and hung on barn fronts across the region, and the village museum holds a collection of them. Thermal baths opened here in 2005, and a cable car climbs to Vounetz for walking above the valley.

What you actually see

• The Poya and the Desalpe - herds driven up in spring and down in autumn.
• Poya panel paintings - the naive barn-front pictures of those processions.
• Alp dairies above - Gruyere made on the high pastures in summer.
• Thermal baths - the modern complex in the village since 2005.

When to go

May to October; spring for the Poya, late September or October for the Desalpe. Two days.

Honest expectations

The processions are on dates set by the farmers and weather, not a fixed calendar - check locally. The Desalpe fills the village. Baths are busy at weekends. Bus service up the valley is limited.

Nearby

Gruyeres and Moleson are west; the Jaun pass and Gastlosen are east.