Geneva Old Town

Geneva's old town climbs a hill above the point where the Rhône leaves the lake, and it is a compact, quietly handsome quarter of cobbled lanes, shuttered stone houses, antique dealers and the largest old square in the city, the Place du Bourg-de-Four, which has been a meeting place since Roman times. At the top stands the cathedral of Saint Pierre, a building that swung from Catholic to Protestant during the Reformation and had its interior stripped bare as a result, with an archaeological site beneath revealing layers of earlier churches, and towers that can be climbed for a view over rooftops to the lake and the Alps. Below, the lakefront runs to the Jet d'Eau, the fountain that throws a plume of water some 140 metres into the air and has become the city's emblem. Geneva is expensive and rather serious, but the old town gives it charm.

What to look for

• Saint Pierre Cathedral - the stripped Reformation interior and the climbable towers.
• Place du Bourg-de-Four - the old square at the heart of the upper town.
• The archaeological site - the excavated layers of earlier churches beneath the cathedral.
• The Jet d'Eau - the great lakefront fountain, visible across the city.

When to go

May to September is warmest for the lakefront and the terraces; the old town is walkable year-round and pleasant in winter when it is quiet. The Jet d'Eau runs through most of the year but is switched off in hard frost and high wind. Sunday mornings are especially still in the upper lanes.

Things to know

Geneva is among the most expensive cities in Europe, and that shows in everything from coffee to hotels. The old town is small and seen in a few hours, and the city as a whole is more businesslike than beautiful, so travellers hoping for a Swiss picture-postcard often prefer Bern or Lucerne. The Jet d'Eau soaks anyone who walks out along its pier when the wind shifts, which is half the fun.

Nearby

The lake steamers run along Lac Léman to Lausanne and the Lavaux vineyards; the French Alps and Chamonix are close over the border.