Valderrobres

Valderrobres sits on the Matarrana river, and the approach is the set piece: a medieval stone bridge leads to the Portal de San Roque, a fortified gate through the walls, and beyond it the town climbs to a castle-palace built between the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries for the archbishops of Zaragoza, Gothic in style with large windows and carved detail more suited to a residence than a fortress. Beside it stands the church of Santa Maria la Mayor with a rose window and a carved portal. The lanes between are stone with arches and carved lintels. The Matarrana district, sometimes marketed as Aragonese Tuscany, holds a string of similar villages including Calaceite, Cretas and La Fresneda.

What you actually see

• The bridge and gate - a medieval crossing into a fortified portal.
• The castle-palace - a Gothic archbishops' residence above the town.
• Santa Maria la Mayor - a church with a rose window and carved doorway.
• The Matarrana villages - a string of stone settlements across the district.

When to go

April to June and September to November; the Matarrana is hot in summer and cold in winter. The castle keeps limited hours with a midday break and closes some weekdays outside the season.

Honest expectations

Valderrobres is remote, a long drive from anywhere, with the nearest cities in Catalonia rather than Aragon. Streets are steep and parking is outside the gate. Services are limited outside weekends.

Nearby

Calaceite, Cretas and La Fresneda are in the same district; the Ports mountains lie south.