Triana

Triana sits across the Guadalquivir from central Seville, and it has always insisted on being separate: a barrio of ceramicists, sailors, bullfighters and flamenco families, home to a large Roma community until slum clearance dispersed much of it in the 1960s and 1970s. Ceramics remain visible, with tile workshops along Calle San Jorge and the Centro Ceramica Triana built over old kilns, and the azulejos on the barrio's facades are made here. The Capilla de los Marineros holds the Esperanza de Triana, one of the two Virgins whose Holy Week rivalry divides the city. The Calle Betis riverfront faces the Torre del Oro, and the covered market occupies the site of the Castillo de San Jorge, once the seat of the Inquisition.

What you actually see

• The ceramic workshops - tile production along Calle San Jorge.
• The Capilla de los Marineros - the chapel of the Esperanza de Triana.
• Calle Betis - a riverfront of bars facing the old city.
• The market and castle site - a covered market over the Inquisition's former seat.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the pleasantest walking; Holy Week brings the Esperanza procession, one of the most attended in Seville. Evenings on Calle Betis are the liveliest and busiest.

Honest expectations

The flamenco heritage is real but the barrio's Roma community was largely displaced decades ago, and much of what is presented to visitors is staged. Calle Betis is a tourist strip with prices to match. The quarter is small and walked in a couple of hours.

Nearby

Central Seville is across the bridge; the Torre del Oro and cathedral face the quarter from the far bank.